Labuche, Nepal 16/08/08 Day 30

Day 30 (slide show)
I was quite worried about my right heel last night, it had gotten quite a bit worse yesterday. I didn't sleep well partly because of the altitude and I keep thinking how bad it would be to spend this much time and money only to let my blister problem stop me. I thought of several ways and I have quite an array of remedies to solve the problem but only one try at it. Remembering some of the conversations I had at REI with Tammy, Nance and Drew I settled for putting a shell over it. I decided to cut a piece of water bottle to the size of my blister so that I could put the duck tape over it. I tried several sizes of plastic. The one that worked the best was just the size of the blister. If the plastic it to large then it can rub in another spot. This was going to be a good day to try it. Today is a 6hr climb with steep terrain. Well see how it works. Just as we were about to leave I found out that there was a marker for the foreign climbers that have died on the mountain. I frantically searched around and found it just in time to grab my pack and get in line. Well it has been a tough day which included a 3 to 4hr climb through the valley river drainage of a giant glacier. The river is named Labusha Khola and I think the glacier is named the same I have to look it up. If you look at the pictures you can get an idea of the immense size of this area. Looking at the pic's we had to hike up the right side where for hours you have to jump from rock to rock or step in 6in of mud. I'm glad I had my trekking poles they saved me several times from falling in. As usual the rain came in at 2pm so the last part of the climb was very wet. As the rain was at its worst we came to the Tukla Pass which was very steep and the toughest part of the climb yet. At the top was the monument area where several dozen, maybe a hundred it was hard to see due to the rain and mist. These monuments were for the fallen climbers whom have died on the mountain. I tried to find the monument for my friend Marty Hoey who I new from when I worked at Snowbird Ski resort in Utah. I couldn't find it but the rain was coming down so hard that I couldn't look at them all. This is the worst rain I've seen yet. I'm sure some of her friends at Snowbird would like to know if the monument was in good shape or not. I will have to look on the way down because its just to foggy and rainy to see much. Damn this is tough. As we approached Gorak Shep we were looking down on a dry sandy area where the glacier had left what might be called a small lake bed with no water just dry light sand. Quite strange. Also on the right I could see a small hill across from the Tea House where we are staying at. It is the view that I've seen so many times. Its the same panoramic view that REI uses to promote its memberships. They have a member standing as I am with the description that its Base Camp of Everest. So I got a picture of myself in about the same spot. The problem is that it isn't Base Camp. I asked our guide how far it is to the actual base camp. He told me about two hours. There are several tea houses in Gorak Shep where many climbers and trekkers decide to cry uncle and call it quits. I meet many. Anyway I'm going to make it tomorrow. After that I don't care about my right heel, I'll limp down if I have to.

Pheriche, Nepal 15/08/08 Day 29

Day 29 (slide show)
The temperature this morning is 7 C. Its cold and no there isn't any heat for us. Were are staying an extra day here to acclimate to the altitude. That's a good idea. You can feel the lack of oxygen. Last night I woke feeling like I was drowning. I told Paul about this and he said he could feel the altitude also. Paul and I are starting to get along pretty good. Last night he made a point to invite me to play in a group question and answer game with the Brit's before turning in. It was the first time I had been invited to participate. It was pretty fun but didn't last long. Sometimes I can't tell what they are saying because of there accent. This morning is one of the few mornings where we had a clear sky. The peaks were beautiful and the air was crisp. This makes for some great photo's. The guide didn't make sure that all of us knew we were leaving so soon again. I asked him to keep me informed but I think he tells some of the Brit's whats up but if I'm not standing right there I don't here about it. I told him not to do it again and he just turned away from me. I wasn't the only one that came running out late this time either. Anyway I didn't get a chance to get my boots tied right so of course right away my blister got a lot worse. I was told last night that we would go for 500m and if we didn't fill like going that was alright. I almost walked back in right away. But I didn't and keep going even though I could feel the heat from the blister. Well as I'm climbing and getting mad I decided to stop when I got to 15,000 ft. When I did you would have thought I was some kind of mutineer. Our guide was all surprised and I told him I had a blister problem earlier but for some reason he didn't like that answer. He looked at me with a smirk look like I was having some kind of altitude problem. I didn't have anything to prove on a stupid climb like this and I certainly don't have anything to prove to the Brit's. My watch said 15,022 so I stopped and told them I would wait there. They all went on for about 100m more. One good thing was that the guide asked his assistant to stay with me and we started talking for the first time. I brought out my binoculars and we took turns looking at all the farm houses below. He seems like a nice guy. I'm back in my room now and my heal is pretty bad. Two blisters one on the other. I will need to do something about this or I won't make it. My duck tape won't go on top of the blister's so that's out. It's about 5pm now and I'm going to rest and clean this blister up.
Note: These guides are comical. They remind me of some sheep herder dogs I've seen. If you get out of position then they snap at your heals to get you back in position.

Pheriche, Nepal 14/08/08 Day 28

Day 28 (slide show)
I sleep very well for some reason. I must have been very tired. After a light breakfast we started out for another 6hr day of trekking. I dressed up my heal a little better with the duck tape I have, which by the way I have done every day and will see how it goes.I crossed the 14,000 ft (4268m) today. Tomorrow I will be in new territory for me. The Tea House is a lot better tonight then last night but its much colder up here. Were above the tree line of course and without wood what do you burn in the stove. Well its Jobky pies. They don't smell that bad but when you watch the guides and porters picking the crap out of the cardboard box the use to carry it in from outside then going back to the kitchen and preparing the food you have to wonder. Somethings wrong, (Junior Watson Blues man). Also they won't light the fire until 5pm so they don't use up all the fuel (crap) so fast. Its a good thing but it gets cold from 3 to 5pm. The altitude is now noticeable. Every now and again you find yourself gasping for air and taking a deep breath. The dinning area is quite large here at this Tea House so the it takes a long time to heat up. Food here is the same as below. Some things I have to stay away from. The Potatoes have something in them that makes me nauseous. You don't want to eat the meet it might be the dog you kicked the day before. The rice and the eggs are about it for me. Bread if they have it. The Chinese stayed down the road at the nice place but we picked a fun couple from Italy and a single gal from Australia. All very fun to be with. We are going to spend to nights here to acclimate to the altitude. No one has said anything to me yet but I figure our guide will take us on another climb tomorrow. My heel is getting worse and I need to rest it. There is a critter up here which I have mentioned before called the Jobky. Its a cross between a Yak and a Cow. This thing is ugly. It is very strong and does all the heavy lifting at the lower altitudes. I'm told by my friend Krishna in Kathmandu that these beasts are used below 4000m (13,500ft) but were seeing them a little higher. They really crap all over the trail. You have to watch your step around here. I just had a chance to ask our guide about tomorrow and he said we will be going on a hike of about 500m tomorrow. When I asked where to he just pointed and said over there and walked away. I don't think he likes talking to me much. The Italian couple was sitting next to me and they said it seemed to much and were a little surprised by the way he walked away. I told them it was probably a good thing because the idea is to make it to base camp but my right heal was in bad shape and I might sit this one out.

Chyaagboche Day 27 13/08/08

Day 27 (slide show)
The climb was 6hr today which was hard because my heel is real sore. Its the right foot. Fortunately its not much worse then yesterday but I don't feel confident it will stay that way. The last time I had a problem like this both heals got double blisters on them and it took weeks to heal. We rolled into Chyaagboche about 3pm today and it had been raining for about an hour. This is where there is a Baddest Temple that is quite nice. Imangian that everything in and on the Temple was carried by Porter or Jobky/Yak. Right across from the entrance is the Tea House we are to stay at. The place looks like it came right out of the 15th century. There was a screw up at a Tea house up the trail and a group of Chinese, maybe 15 or so had a reservation there. Someone forgot to tell them that it was closed so they got lodging at the place we were at. Also there was a couple from Israel who were very nice. We spent several hours playing cards and talking about places we have been. That's not all there was a Spanish group of 7 or 8 who were staying there to. At dinner it was like a UN meeting. We had the Brit's an Irishman a Yankee several Nepalese, then you have the Chinese group how might have been from Taiwan because the one guy I meet wes from Taipei and then The Spanish and these were just the folks I meet. These Spaniards were a great group. There were very friendly and loved to talk with me. They did have a problem though, they were loosing there group along the trail. It was because of injury or stomach illness. That's one thing you have to be careful of is the food and water. At this place the food was the worst yet. Its hard to tell what is going to be safe to eat. I have Cipro and a lighter weight medicine but if you start to get sick from the food or the water then it can ruin your chances to get to Base camp. On this night I didn't feel very good so after a few hours of talking and playing cards I turned in. This is my third night and I not sure what happened but in Kathmandu I had a roommate, John from Dublin but when we got on the mountain two nights ago I had a room to myself. Last night I thought there was a screw up but now I'm not sure. Because the place is so crowded I'm sharing with a guy named Paul. He's a nice guy and we seem to get along alright.

Namche Bazaar 12/08/08 Day 26

Day 26 (slide show)
I was told a couple of days ago we would get to rest and see the village of Namche Bazaar today but I guess not. Yesterday afternoon I overheard some folks talk of some kind of acclamation hike. That's probably a good idea for everyone except I need to make sure the blister on my heal doesn't get any worse. This has always been my problem when I go hiking. I've gone through many different boots but with no luck. We went hiking for about 5 hours to a pretty nice Japanese Tea House that they called the Everest Tea House I think. It was closed for the season except they did have coffee and snacks available. I had a good hike and my blister problem didn't seem to get any worse. I will have to find some way to stop this our it will stop me. The rain started at 1 to 2pm like clockwork. This is a good time for a short nap. It seems I´m spending a lot of time by myself. The Brits want to hang together, that's alright I guess. I wonder if the same guy went to all the tea houses to prepare the menu´s. They seem to be the written by the food supplier at the bottom. I would say that about 80% of the shops and tea houses are closed for the season. It would be nice to see the place a little more active but on the other hand the trail would be a lot more crowded. I think I like it the way it is or maybe just off the season so the peaks would be visible. My goal is to make base camp and that's what I paid for so seeing the peaks would be nice but I saw a lot of peaks in Pakistan. Our guide continues to be evasive and the asst. guides don´t seem to understand. I've asked several questions about the daily schedule or points of interest but don´t get a good response. I told them I have a hearing problem and they need to look at me when we talk but I don´t think they understand. There is one asst. guide who seems like he wants to help me figure out what´s up. Maybe he is trying to figure me out. I don´t have his name yet but I will get it.

Namche Bazaar 11/08/08 Day 25

Day 25 (slide show)
The breakfast stunk. I have to stay focused on reaching base camp. It will be easy to succumb to the discomforts. This reminds me of my climb on Rainier. There will always be reasons to quit but it will be very hard to continue. The day was good and I feel strong. The injury from the bike accident is still a little with me but I fell much better. The landscape is beautiful and there are many waterfalls everywhere. We left after breakfast at 7am. The first part of the day was only 200m of vertical but in the afternoon it became a lot steeper. Namche Bazaar is (3440) so we went quite a ways today. The Tea House tonight isn't much better then last night. This one does have a shower for 200 rupees though. Everything cost on this trek. Arjun told me they were ripping me off and now I see why. Breakfast in the only thing included. Its colder here and so it will be easier to sleep. My 0' degree bag has been way to warm but I know I will be glad that I have it later. My right heel got a small blister on it today. Damn. I have to control this. Were told we are going to stay here two nights to acclimate so I can heal up. By the way it started to rain at 2pm.

NOTE:
Just found out that we are going on an acclamation hike tomorrow to the top of a small mountain behind the Tea House. I guess I won't get to heal up after all.

Lukala and Phokoding 10/08/08 Day 24

Day 24 (slide show)
It was hard to pack but I did the best with what I had. I needed the duffel bag but I had a very strong XXL stuff sack from REI of course and I used that. I wore my Keens and put my boots in the bag for the porters to carry. I have 4 waterproof stuff sacks that I used for clothes and sleeping bag.For my pack I'm using my Osprey Kestrel 48 which is a little large compared to the others and there day packs but I like to carry a few extra things. I have a hard time packing light. Need to work on that. I think I had the heavest pack but not sure. it was the biggest though. Tomorrow I will change things a bit when I put my boots on. The flight was un-eventful and weather was fine. Sure could have used that extra day. Lukala (2810) is a village and the starting point for the trek to base camp and several other routes. The first day is a lot of downhill and all I'm thinking is how hard thats going to be coming out when I'm tired. Lot's of rock steps in the trail and very wide. Many porters carring everything. Krishna was right about so much. Our first teahouse was the cheapest looking place around. I hope this isn't an indacation of thing to come. The rain started at 2pm and didn't quite until 5am and it came down hard. Tomorrow will be hard. Need to prepare mentaly. No blisters today which is good.

Mr. Joshi and the City of Kathmandu 9/08/08 Day 23

Day 23 (slide show)

Remember Shovan from the other day. Well he told me that his father who lives in Kathmandu might want to take me around to some of the more hidden Temples if I was interested. I told him that would be nice but I didn't want him to offer his father's time if it was an inconvenience. Well that was a few days ago and I didn't think it was going to happen. But he called and we meet. Mr. Joshi, Great man. Strange things happen like this. Turns out he goes for a walk through this area every few days and he thought I might like to see it. I think because Shovan works in Utah and he has been to Utah and he knows that I'm from Utah might have had something to do with it. I was a little anxious because I had some things I wanted to do before the rest of the group arrived from London but it was very enjoyable. We started at 7am which showed me the city in the morning before all the cars and motorcycles came out. The merchants were just getting opened and it was kind of clean. We went to many temples and a palace. It was a special holiday too. The Give and Take holiday. He told me it was something like kids day. I was suprised to see that the poor mothers were giving rupies to the temple leaders so that they could get a small handful of rice. Something wasn't quite right with this. It was a great morning though. I learned a good lesson though. The cab driver wanted to wait for me and I told him no but he did anywhay. When I got back to the main Temple he found me and gave me a ride to the hotel. We argured over the fare because he wanted to charge me for the time he waited. We settled on the low end but the guy tried to rip me off. He didn't get me though. Later I meet with Krishna to talk about some of the things to consider on the trek. He was so helpful. we went to a supermarket and he looked over my gear. He suggested what to take and what to leave. We came up with a good plan. The one thing I was missing was a duffel bag to put my gear in. This bag your to give to the porters to carry and then you just carry your personal gear. Well I had see several stores I could get one from cheap. I thought I would get it tomorrow morning. The group will be arriving soon and they will need to pick up some things. I have been scouting out the area for what I think they will need if they want it. Well the group arrived and they seem like a good group 12 total with me. Larger then I was told. Later to find they put two group dates togather. We had a meeting at 6pm with the guide and it didn't go to well. I was under the impresion that we would fly to Lukala on Monday but the guide wants to go tomorrow morning at 5 am. This was a suprise to everyone. I guess that the airport in Lukala can get clouded in and you don't know until your at the Kathmandu airport or in the air. I thought someone should have told us of this possablity. Another bad thing was the guide was very avasive to many questions ask by me and others. I didn't like the meeting or the guide. This guy is slippery. Adapt, overcome, conquer. Deep breath 5am is going to come early.

Kathmandu 8/08/08 Day 22

Day 22 (slide show)
After taking care of the Credit card and bankcard issue which took longer then it should have I decided to get out of the hotel for awhile. As I left there was a lot of commotion going on. These police wagons were going by full of protesters. You could feel the tension in the air. All the shop keepers either hide behind something or went out to the streets and shouted something. Nothing happened but it was strange. Its a good thing I planned to get robbed. I kept an extra set of cards from another bank stashed away just in case. I leave to go on the base camp trek in a couple of days so I had the Citibank send a card to the Hotel. The Citibank CC people were more difficult but they said they would do the same thing. So it works out alright except my CA drivers license was also taken and I won't get another one of those. I made a mistake by carrying it. So while I'm on Everest the cards will arrive and I will get them when I return. I went to dinner with some Couch surfers that just arrived into town but for the most part it was uneventful.

Kathmandu and the trek to the Obseratory 7/08/08 Day 21

Day 21 (slide show)

Well 3 weeks now, when I woke this morning I was very tired. I had promised to go trekking with my new friend Krishna but I hadn't heard anything yet. I went for breakfast thinking how nice it would be to go back to sleep. Just as I sat down he walked in ready to go. Deep breath. Let's go. Traveled 3 hours on a local bus crowded with people inside and on top. Traveled east to Bhaktapur then changed buses and onto Nagarkot. We walked for about 4km up a road through a few military camps then to this tower. There was the Geodetic Obseratory Nagarkot just sitting there. I was suprised. Krishna didn't know anything about it. After climbing the tower you could get a great view of the Observatory. I wanted to check it out. We walked over and let ourselfs in. It didn't seem like there was anyone there and the building wasn't finished on the inside. A grounds caretaker women found us and told Kashmir that the Observatory was built one year ago and was still being worked on but the funds had dried up. We left and went down the hill to the fenced in grounds that I had noticed on the way up. That's where the sign was. After calling out I told the cartaker the I had just returned from China to see the eclipse and could I talk to someone inside. I also said I was a member of the Planetary Socity. That seemed to work. The most senior person inside was a man who had some information but his job was to watch the place. He let me take some pictures and told us that the property at the lecture and offices belonged to the Nepal government but the Observatory property and funds came from someone in the Czech Rep. Couldn't get much more information from him. Looked like a great place and if they could get the observatory opened I'm sure there would be some good things happening here. The location was perfect. After having dinner at a local diner we started back on the 5pm bus. The weather started to change and rain begain to fall. The people on top had to move inside. When we got to Bhaktapur we found out that the bus had closed because of the fuel shortage. All the buses were stopped or were going to the various yards that were all over. Now it's dark. We walked from yard to yard trying to find a bus. None to be found. Walking in the dark in a hard rain in the muddy streets of a village in Nepal. I started to think I might have to sleep there for the night. Krishna was worried too. He was running all over trying to find one bus going somewhere. We walked about 5km and finaly found one packed with wet people. We crammed our way on and made it to Kathmandu around 10pm. What an adventure. And one last thing. My wallet was lifted while on the bus. No money but my cards are gone. I will have to start to work on that problem tomorrow.