94 seconds just isn't as long as it use to be 2/08/08 Day 16

Day 16 (slide show)
Yep, that's it. 94 seconds. I think it was worth it. I'm tired and in need of rest but I'm glad I saw it. Today we left for an early flight to Chungqing. This begin a day where everyone was wanting to get to the next hotel and crash. While waiting for the flight we stopped at a museum the was full of more propaganda then anything but I didn't want to be there so I was not a good judge of the content. About this time I found out that we won't make it to the hotel until midnight. Say What! Somethings Wrong.

Here are some nice photo's from Joan Caly who was in our group.
Take a look

Altai and the Eclipse 1/08/08 Day 15

Day 15 (slide show) (Eclipse Video)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTuajHJtEck

(Site video)

NASA-Total Solar Eclipse of 2008 Aug information site

The hotel has a stinky bathroom with a door that they found in a river. There isn't a door knob. Also a lousy breakfast too. But after eating the crap we went into a lecture room where all groups were assembled. Total of maybe 50 people. There were four groups here in China at different stages of the tour. The lectures were great. Starting with the Director of the Planetary Society, Louis Freedman then Mary brown from Cal State I believe. Both talked about what we could except at the site. Very interesting. Mary asked folks to stand if they had seen an eclipse before, then she asked for everyone to sit who had seen just one, then two, then three. Now there were about 10 or so folks still standing. Then four, now I think about two or three left. These people search for the eclipse experience. I was surprised that only two or three had only seen four. Now these folks have seen five. OK after Mary and Louis we had a special guest, Nobel Laureate in Physics 2006 George Smoot. He gave about 2 1/2 hour lecture on the latest information about the beginning moments of the Universe. He was great and way over my head. My son Levi would have liked this part. We left to the solar site at 3:30pm and everyone was ready. We had a 1 1/2 hour ride to the site in a bus. This place was in the middle of nowhere. Very close to the Mongolian border and the Russian border. I brought my Poncho and trekking poles to build a leanto for shade. The temperature is going to be 95 plus. They don't have any coolers or toilets. The folks in charge are working on the toilet issue. As the moon passed in front of the sun you could see a big difference in the way your shadow looked. It became much crisper and the lines were sharp. Then the shadow passed over and it became like night. People with good cameras got some great photo's. I took a movie of it and you will seeit after my friend Tom cleans it up a bit. It was fantastic and humbling at the same time. My planning paid off and Ed and I brought a few bottles of wine to celebrate with. I also had some dried apricots from Pakistan that went well with the wine. It was a great day and made all the torture and pain of the buses and planes worth it. 94 seconds of glory. Seams hard to believe. Lots of celebrating that night in Altai. Note: The locals only heard about the eclipse the day before. They weren't sure what to think of all these westerners traveling all this way to see such a thing. I'm sure you can guess what they thought. If your reading this your thinking the same thing.

Poster scan of the "Total Solar Eclipse"

This poster scan is provided by:
Dr. Louis Friedman
Executive Director, The Planetary Society

Here are some Silk Road/Eclipse pics...from Mike Caruthers

Urumqi /Altai where the "Total Solar Eclipse" will happen 31/07/08 Day 14

Day 14 (Slide show)
I arrived at the hotel where I had left my trekking bag over a week ago. It was unmolested and in good shape. My idea for a bag lock system is working well. I use zip ties instead of locks. The locks can be opened by just about anyone and the zip ties can be cut, but I know if the ties have been cut where as the locks can be locked back up and you won't know. There is one problem though. I didn't bring enough and I can't find any here in China. Need to keep looking. This Urumqi airport has assaulted me every time I've gone through the security. Its a good thing I have packed all my things in separate stuff sacks. This other guy in front of me got his bag searched and they really threw things around. He had clothes all over the place. Well I'm off to Altai where we plan to watch the solar eclipse. It will be very exciting. I calculated that by the time I finish this part of my adventure I will have 8 in country flights and countless bus rides here in China. That's a lot of bag searches. I arrived in my room at Altai at 5pm and stayed put. I need the rest. I will see the city tomorrow.

Toshgorgon to Kashgar, fly to Qrumqi 30/07/08 Day 13

Day 13 (Slide show)
Going to be another hard day. At least the bus will be nicer. Yesterday the exhaust from the bus was leaking into the back even while driving. I'll be glad to get to Nepal. I hope the eclipse is successful. Had to leave at 6am with no coffee. Everyone is irritated and tired. The ride was long. Nicer bus but it was built for midgets. No leg room. Had lunch in Kashgar at the same place we had diner at 4 days ago. Still just as bad. Were off to a Muslim Tomb. I'm at the airport now and I just asked a few folks what the name of it was and nobody could tell me. BFD. Flying for Urumqi now. Should be there by 7pm. Looking forward to seeing my bag of gear again. I had to leave it at the hotel when I was here before we went to Pakistan. Nice place the Hoitak Hotel in Urumqi. No time to stay long. Always a nice hotel for one night but then a dump when we stay for 2 nights. Somethings wrong.

Here is a link to more photo's from my fellow China traveler Nancy Ciotti
Here is a link from fellow China traveler Sigmund Csicsery
and here are some great photo's from Sigmund and Gabeielle, very nice couple and I enjoyed there company.

Back up the Karakoam Hwy to Sost and Toshgogon 29/07/08 Day 12

Day 12 (slide show)

Back on this rough road again. It's going to be a long ride to China. We left at 7am and the early morning breeze feels good. I plugged in my IPod. I'm a little hung over from the Mulberry wine from last night but not to bad. I still remember everything I did, I think. In Sost the the bus was ready for our transfer but the security checks are rough. At the top of the pass the Chinese had a troop morale day, I guess you might call it a Chinese USO show. They made us wait for the show to finish before letting us though. Very frustrating. More security checks and then when we arrived in Toshgogon where we had stayed before the computer was turned off. Also I just found out that we are leaving at 6am tomorrow. Another full day to Kashgar. My knees are sore from these small seats. Somethings wrong.

pp

My last night in Pakistain 28/07/08 Day 11

Day 11 (slide show)

I couldn't sleep so I got up early and breakfast was ready with good coffee. I eat by myself which was nice and quite. There is too much food on this tour. I didn't eat last night. About the folks on this trip. They are all very intelligent, way over my head. Not only do they know what they are talking about but they can site the facts most of the time. Because of my bad hearing I have to be careful to not stick my foot in my mouth. This hotel is at 7700 ft. Tomorrow we return to China over the pass again. I must prepare for a long bus ride over a bad road/trail. I hope I can shake this cold by then. I'm sure having trouble with the pictures. I can't seem to get a fast enough connection around here. It's frustrating. About 11am we went to the Biltit Fort that looks over the Village. It was the actually the house of the Khan of the day until the British arrived. The so called Fort was never attacked and was the residence of the man in charge at the time. Great afternoon and evening though. We took jeep to a hotel called "Island in the Sky and went trekking way up the side of a mountain looking over Karimabad. It was about 4hr and felt good to hike a little. My hip injury is getting better and this was the first test on it. Notice that I'm waring my Keen sandals. They have been a great pair of walking shoes. While coming down off the mountain we came across a poppy field. Imagine that, a poppy field in Pakistan. Later we had a very nice farewell party with our new friends from Pakistan. There was dancing and we had a live band of Pakistani musicians which were great. I'm sure the Mulberry wine had something to do with it. It seems that Pakistan is a dry country for the most part but they make a great home brew. I had a great time here and wish all our new friends a happy and long life. Two new friends I need to mention are Abbas Ali and his cousin Talib Hussein. Two new friends that I will not forget.

Karimabad, Pakistan 27/07/08 Day 10

Day 10 (Slide show)
We started at about 9am back up to the Hunza Valley. This was to be the farthest south we were to go. I secured the shotgun seat which is the best seat to have. The problem was that several of the other folks were having a tough time and so I offered it to several others. This was misunderstood by some but it worked out and I went back to my spot at the back of the bus. The shocks on it were shot and the thing bounced all over. We stopped for Tea at a beautiful spot to view Mt. Rocoposhi. (7785m) No attempts have been made since 1985 when a group from Japan and Pakistan failed. I didn't hear the details but I guess it's one to climb if you want your name on it. Drove for several more hours on the treacherous road with a few photo stops. One of the stops I happened to notice that the van I had got out of had bald tires in the front. I mean bald. Ended up in Gulmit where there was an cybercafe at the end of the gate so I stopped in to try to download my pic's. Very nice guy there named Abbas. He runs the place as a social worker because the cafe is a charity donation given by the Canadians. They use the profits to help handicapped children and women. The day was slower which was good, I need the rest. I'm catching a cold. Still not having much luck with the pic's. Anyone watching please be patent.

pp

Gulmet and the Hunza Valley 26/07/08 Day 9

Day 9 (slide show)
(video 1)
(video 2)
About 2 to 3 am I felt like I was turning the corner on the cold, well I will have to see how it goes. I got up early and Tom and I walked to a suspension bridge that was about 1/2 mile away. It was very old and dilapidated. We were told later that it is used everyday now by women to take vegetables to the other side. I walked out about 60 ft. but Tom wouldn't go so he took the pictures. I also found some time to get in a little jog. The village of Gulmet is about 8700 ft. Gulmet is about 20 km from Gulgit. I've been getting soft and I can fell it. I need to do some serious running and hiking in order to get into shape for Base Camp. Now for another 5 hours in the damn bus. We all complained of the size so the added a van but it was designed for midgets. We meet another group from The Planetary Society who are going to the eclipse and they heard that there might be 200,000 people along a very small line in northern China. Sounds like it could be Woodstock again. There are no services and the zone is in the middle of nowhere. Stayed at the Hotel Serena in Gulgit and there were a lot of military everywhere. No women, strange. Big news. I had told the local guide that I wanted to ride a Yak or a horse so he set up a complete polo match with the local polo team just for us. Then they let me ride a polo pony during the half time. There were over 100 people there and he even had the band play as I rode up and down the field. It was great. Good horses too. The pictures will follow soon.

Hard Trail to the Hunza Valley, Pakistan 25/07/08 Day 8

Day 8 (slide show)
''UPDATE 16/03/10"
Giant Mudslide in the Hunza Valley

I hope my friends are safe.

Another boarder check before leaving the city of Tashkurgano. This one was bad. The full rectal. Bags and passports checked twice while pictures were taken of us waiting. Then again on the bus we were asked for our passports and a guard rode in the bus with us to the boarder. They kept all the tourist buses together and we were with a group from Switzerland who were mountain biking down on the Karakorum Highway. I thought it was a cop out because it was only down hill and while we were going through all the customs stops they were pretty cocky. Then I saw all they did was put their bikes back together and go down the trail. Weak. The summit was quite spectacular. 15,800 at the top with a little snow falling. I'm trying to get the damn pic's downloaded but so far it seems to hard until I get to a high speed IT cafe. Down the very steep valley trail we came to the Pakistan boarder crossing. We had been in Pakistan for some time but Sost is the boarder crossing. Small village with lots of commandos and guards. It took 2.5 hr. to get through this customs stop but the were nice about it. The Pakistan people are pretty nice for the most part. The Chinese are a pain in the ass. Finally I got to my hotel, a little primitive but OK. The water in the room has to sit in a bucket so the dirt will settle to the bottom. Good thing I have my Steripen. I haven't gotten the Pakistan waltz yet but I have a cold. Trying to lay low and get better.